If you want the best Best Cast Iron Tubs pick without overthinking it, the Signature Hardware 406146 Lena 59 is the safest starting point. It is the only tub here with both a pre-drilled overflow hole and a factory tap deck, so nobody has to drill porcelain enamel on site. It fits a standard 60-inch alcove footprint.
Want a lighter project instead? The Ekopel Roll On Tub refinishing kit delivers a fresh white surface for far less money, as long as your existing shell is sound and you are willing to do real prep work.
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This guide covers what most roundups skip: floor-load math, drain and overflow compatibility, and the 57 to 72 inch sizing decisions that actually determine whether a tub fits. It also names the buyers who should walk away from cast iron entirely.
Everything below comes from current Amazon listing data, manufacturer specifications, and each product’s owner review record. Nobody on our team soaked in these tubs, so treat every claim as research, not a lab test.
Quick Answer: The Best Cast Iron Tubs
The Signature Hardware 406146 Lena 59″ Cast takes the top spot because it is the only tub in this lineup that ships with both a pre-drilled overflow hole and a factory tap deck.
This is the pick for anyone who wants a 59-inch clawfoot without scheduling a plumber to cut holes in enamel. The 406146 Lena arrives with the overflow hole and tap deck already drilled, which means the faucet mounting points line up with the tub instead of being marked by hand. Owner reviews repeatedly mention that the fixture set bolted on without a fight.
The cast iron shell is the reason to spend here. Cast iron holds heat longer than acrylic or fiberglass because the iron mass absorbs warmth and releases it slowly, and this tub also carries a porcelain enamel interior that resists staining from hard water. Aggregate feedback from buyers converting from acrylic describes noticeably warmer water at the 20-minute mark.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. It is heavy, and a 59-inch cast iron shell loaded with water means you should confirm your floor joists can take the dead load before ordering. The exterior finish also arrives needing a careful walk-through for shipping scuffs, and some owners report minor chips that need touch-up.
Sizing: Measure the alcove opening at three points before ordering. A 59-inch tub needs roughly 60 inches of clear space plus room for the faucet riser behind the rim.
Pros
✓Pre-drilled overflow hole and tap deck save an on-site drilling step.
✓Porcelain enamel over cast iron holds water temperature far longer than acrylic.
✓59-inch length fits tight alcoves that reject a 66-inch or 72-inch shell.
✓Clawfoot styling hides the plumbing run, so no tile work behind the tub is required.
Cons
✕Very heavy empty, so a second and third set of hands is mandatory on stairs.
✕Freight shipping raises the odds of minor finish chips that need touching up.
✕The tap deck limits you to faucets that match that drilling pattern.
Length
59 in
Material
Cast iron / enamel
Drillings
Overflow + tap deck
Install type
Clawfoot, freestanding
Best for: Buyers who want a traditional clawfoot soaker with the faucet holes already cut, in a bathroom that cannot spare more than about 60 inches of wall.
This kit exists for one job: hiding chips, cracks, and rust blooms on a tub you already own instead of replacing it. It works on enamel, fiberglass, and acrylic surfaces, which covers nearly every residential tub material sold in the last forty years. Buyers describe using it on rental units where a full replacement was never on the table.
The kit is a two-part epoxy system with a color-matched white hardener. Verified buyer feedback shows the repair cures hard enough to sand and polish within a day, and the finished patch blends reasonably well on standard white tubs. On off-white or almond shells, though, the match is visibly warmer or cooler than the surrounding surface.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. This is cosmetic repair, not structural repair. If your tub flexes underfoot or the crack reaches through the shell, epoxy fills the gap but does not restore the load path, and the patch will eventually crack again.
For a damaged shell that needs a full surface restoration rather than a patch, the Ekopel Roll Tub Cast Bathtub Refinishing kit further down covers the whole basin instead of one spot.
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Care: Ventilate the room and wear gloves. Two-part epoxy hardeners are skin sensitizers, and the odor lingers in a closed bathroom for hours.
Pros
✓Works on three tub materials: enamel, fiberglass, and acrylic.
✓Two-part epoxy cures hard enough to sand and polish flush.
✓Cheapest way to make a chipped tub look presentable before a sale or move-in.
✓No plumbing skills required, so a first-time DIYer can finish the job in an afternoon.
Cons
✕Color match drifts on almond, biscuit, and off-white tubs.
✕Fixes appearance only, not structural cracks that flex under weight.
✕Short working time means you mix small batches and move quickly.
Type
2-part epoxy filler
Surfaces
Enamel, fiberglass, acrylic
Color
White
Skill level
Beginner DIY
Best for: Renters and homeowners patching a chip, scratch, or small crack on a white tub they intend to keep, not replace.
Choose the Akicon if you want the freestanding look without hunting down a separate drain assembly. At 67 inches it sits between the compact 59s and the long 72s, and the box includes the drain and overflow kit that most competitors sell as an add-on.
Freestanding cast iron changes the room layout math. There is no apron and no tile flange, so the tub does not need a three-wall alcove. You do need a floor drain rough-in near the tub’s centerline and roughly 12 inches of clearance on the faucet side for a floor-mounted filler. Buyers installing over tile report the single heaviest lift of the whole remodel.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. The included drain kit is basic, and several owners swap the overflow trim for a finish that matches their faucet. Freestanding also means every plumbing line is visible, so a sloppy rough-in has nowhere to hide.
If you would rather keep the plumbing behind a wall, the KOHLER 716-0 Villager 60″ x 30-1/4 below drops into a standard alcove and hides the supply lines completely.
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Install: A filled 67-inch cast iron freestanding tub can exceed 700 pounds with water and a bather. Verify joist direction and span before you set it, and never lift it by the rim.
Pros
✓Drain and overflow kit ships in the box, removing one separate purchase.
✓Cast iron with enamel coating keeps water warm through a long soak.
✓Freestanding footprint opens up rooms that have no alcove walls.
✓67-inch basin is long enough for taller bathers without a 72-inch footprint.
Cons
Included drain trim is plain, and many buyers upgrade it.
Floor-mounted filler and exposed plumbing drive up total project cost.
Needs a wide clearance zone, so small bathrooms are usually out.
Length
67 in
Material
Cast iron enamel
Included
Drain + overflow kit
Mount
Freestanding
Best for: Remodelers building a primary bathroom around a freestanding centerpiece who want the drain hardware included.
This is the tub for people who already know exactly where the faucet goes and want the shell to arrive untouched. The 931047-72-RR ships as a rolled-rim shell with no external drain, no overflow hole, and no faucet holes. Your installer drills to the actual rough-in instead of you designing around someone else’s pattern.
Nothing comes with it. You buy the drain, the overflow, the faucet, and the supply lines separately, and you accept that the first cut you make cannot be undone. That is exactly why contractors like it. A 72-inch shell also gives a genuine two-person soaking length, and the rolled rim reads as a smooth, continuous edge instead of a flat deck.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. Drilling porcelain enamel requires a diamond bit and patience. One slip and the chip is permanent, so this is not a first-timer job. Freight also means the tub is the last thing that should arrive, after the tile is set and the drain is positioned.
If you would rather not drill anything at all, the Signature Hardware 312541 Lena 72″ Cast further down gives you the same 72-inch soaking length with the overflow hole already cut.
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Compatibility: Nothing is included. Order the drain, overflow, faucet, and supply lines separately, and confirm the external drain body you choose clears your floor and wall rough-in.
Pros
✓Undrilled shell lets the installer match the tub to the actual rough-in.
✓72-inch length gives real stretch-out room for two soakers.
✓Rolled rim creates a clean, continuous edge with no flat deck to catch water.
✓Cast iron mass keeps a full basin warm for a long soak.
Cons
✕No drain, overflow, or faucet included, so the total cost climbs fast.
✕Drilling enamel is unforgiving and should be left to a pro.
✕72 inches needs a long wall, which rules out most secondary bathrooms.
Length
72 in
Rim
Rolled rim
Drillings
None
Skill level
Pro installer
Best for: Contractors and experienced remodelers who want a 72-inch cast iron shell cut to suit a specific rough-in they have already measured.
The Erica exists because not every bathroom has 60 inches to give. At 57 inches it slips into spaces that reject a standard alcove tub, and the pre-drilled overflow hole means one less hole for your installer to cut. Owners of pre-war bungalows and converted closets make up most of the review base here.
The trade-off is length, not quality. A 57-inch basin shortens the soak line, so tall bathers end up with knees bent. The iron mass and enamel coating behave the same as the larger Lena shells, which is why heat retention still scores well despite the smaller water volume.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. Five fewer inches sounds minor until you sit in it. If you are over six feet, test the geometry mentally before ordering. The compact shell also means the faucet deck is tighter, so a wide-spread faucet may crowd the rim.
If you have the wall space and want the extra length, the Signature Hardware 406146 Lena 59″ Cast at the top of this list adds two inches and the same pre-drilled convenience.
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Sizing: A 57-inch tub needs about 58 inches of clear alcove opening. Measure the narrowest point, not the widest, because trim and baseboard eat into the opening.
Pros
✓57-inch length fits small bathrooms that cannot take a 60-inch alcove tub.
✓Pre-drilled overflow saves the installer a step in tight quarters.
✓Cast iron and enamel hold water temperature like the larger siblings.
✓Clawfoot base leaves the floor around the tub open for cleaning.
Cons
✕Shorter basin means tall bathers soak with bent knees.
✕Smaller footprint leaves less room for a wide-spread faucet on the deck.
✕Still heavy enough to need two people to move and set.
Length
57 in
Material
Cast iron / enamel
Drillings
Overflow hole
Install type
Clawfoot, freestanding
Best for: Owners of small bathrooms, bungalows, and converted spaces who want cast iron soaking performance in under 58 inches of wall.
This is the pick when the tub shell is solid but the surface is tired, yellowed, or chipped in a dozen places. Ekopel’s roll-on kit coats the whole interior instead of patching single spots, and it works over the same enamel, fiberglass, and acrylic surfaces you find in most homes.
Prep is 80 percent of the job. The surface has to be cleaned of soap scum, degreased, and scuffed so the coating has something to bite into. Owners who skip that step are the same ones writing about peeling a year later. Done properly, verified buyer feedback describes a finish that holds up to normal use for years, not months.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. Roll-on application leaves a slight texture compared with a spray-applied professional finish, and a few reviewers note roller marks on the first coat. Cure time also locks the bathroom out of service for a day or more, which is a real problem in a one-bath home.
If only a single chip is bothering you rather than the whole surface, the Tub Repair Kit White near the top of the list handles that spot fix for far less effort.
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Care: Ventilation is not optional. Two-part refinishing coatings release strong solvent fumes, and you also need the tub completely dry before the second coat goes on.
Pros
✓Coats the entire interior in one project instead of chasing individual chips.
✓Works across enamel, fiberglass, and acrylic tub shells.
✓Roller application needs no spray equipment or respirator-grade setup.
✓Refinishing costs a fraction of replacing a tub and its plumbing.
Cons
✕Slight roller texture instead of a factory-smooth gloss.
✕Prep failures are the top cause of peeling in owner reports.
✕Multi-day cure keeps the bathroom out of service in a one-bath home.
Type
Roll-on refinish kit
Surfaces
Enamel, fiberglass, acrylic
Coverage
Standard bathtub
Skill level
Intermediate DIY
Best for: Homeowners and landlords who want to renew a structurally sound tub without paying for demolition, disposal, and a new shell.
Think of this as the drilled-ready version of the custom-fit Lena above. The 312541 keeps the 72-inch soaking length and adds a pre-drilled overflow hole, so the drain side of the install is decided for you. Faucet holes are still yours to cut, which keeps the rim clean for a floor-mounted or wall-mounted filler.
Seventy-two inches is the length where a cast iron tub stops feeling like a compromise. Two adults fit with room to spare, and the iron mass keeps a full basin warm through a long evening soak. The trade-off is that a 72-inch shell needs roughly 73 inches of clear wall, which eliminates most standard five-by-seven bathrooms.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. You still drill the faucet holes yourself, so the tooling and risk are the same as any undrilled rim. Weight is also the highest in this lineup, and getting a 72-inch iron shell up a narrow staircase is a genuine logistics problem, not a minor annoyance.
If 72 inches is too long for your wall, the Vintage Tub & Bath Cambridge 60 below delivers the double-ended soak in a 60-inch footprint.
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Compatibility: Faucet holes are not pre-drilled. Confirm your filler type before ordering, because a deck-mount faucet needs a different drilling pattern than a floor-mount or wall-mount setup.
Pros
✓Overflow hole arrives pre-drilled, removing one risky enamel cut.
✓72-inch basin fits two bathers or one very tall one.
✓Cast iron mass holds heat longer than any acrylic shell of the same size.
✓Clean rim keeps your faucet options open.
Cons
✕Heaviest tub in this lineup, so moving it is a crew job.
✕Needs a long wall, which rules out standard-size bathrooms.
✕Faucet holes are still yours to drill, with all the risk that carries.
Length
72 in
Material
Cast iron / enamel
Drillings
Overflow hole
Install type
Clawfoot, freestanding
Best for: Larger primary bathrooms with at least 73 inches of clear wall, where a long cast iron soak is the whole point of the remodel.
The Cambridge is for bathers who want symmetrical sloped ends instead of the typical single-slope soaking tub. Double-ended geometry means both ends rise at the same angle, so two people can face each other with a shared soak line instead of one person claiming the comfortable end.
The rim faucet drillings are the other differentiator. They place the faucet on the rim rather than on a deck or the floor, which suits traditional clawfoot styling and keeps the freestanding footprint smaller than a deck-mount setup would. Vintage Tub & Bath builds this at 60 inches, so it drops into many alcove-sized walls.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. Rim-mount faucets restrict you to a narrower hardware selection than deck-mount. A few owners also report that the double-ended shape has a shallower center depth than expected, which matters if you like to sit deep.
If a deeper single-slope basin matters more than the symmetrical shape, the Signature Hardware 260279 Henley 60″ Cast at the end of the list is a double-ended pedestal with a different tub profile.
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Compatibility: Rim faucet drillings lock you into rim-mount faucets. Confirm that the faucet you want is rated for rim mounting before you place the tub order.
Pros
✓Double-ended shape gives two bathers a comfortable end each.
✓Rim faucet drillings keep the freestanding footprint compact.
✓60-inch length fits many alcove-sized bathroom walls.
✓Cast iron shell delivers the heat retention acrylic shells cannot match.
Cons
✕Rim drillings limit your faucet choices.
✕Center depth is shallower than some single-slope soaking tubs.
✕Heavy cast iron still requires a two-person install.
Length
60 in
Shape
Double-ended
Drillings
Rim faucet
Install type
Clawfoot, freestanding
Best for: Traditional-bathroom remodels where a rim-mount faucet and symmetrical double-ended shape are part of the design intent.
This is the tub you buy when you are replacing an existing alcove tub and want zero surprises. The Villager measures 60 by 30 and a quarter inches, which is the standard alcove footprint in North American residential plumbing. It also ships with a right-hand drain and an integral apron, so the front face is finished for you.
KOHLER’s Safeguard surface is the detail worth noting. It is a slip-resistant finish applied to the tub floor, which lowers the chance of a fall in a standing shower or a wet step-in. The cast iron body and enamel interior behave like every other iron tub here, holding heat and resisting scratches from cleaning pads.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. Right-hand drain is not a preference you can flip. If your rough-in is on the left, this tub is the wrong part number. The integral apron also means the front face is not removable, so accessing the drain assembly from the front later is harder than with a removable panel.
If you want a freestanding tub with the drain hardware already included instead of an alcove install, the Akicon 67″ Cast Iron Freestanding Bathtub is the cleaner upgrade path.
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Compatibility: This is a right-hand drain model. Confirm your waste rough-in side before ordering, because the drain position cannot be swapped after the tub arrives.
Pros
✓Standard 60 by 30 and a quarter inch alcove sizing drops into most existing openings.
The Henley is the period-piece pick for a bathroom being restored to a specific era. It sits on a pedestal base instead of claw feet, which reads closer to late-Victorian and Edwardian styling than the standard ball-and-claw look. The 7-inch rim holes are already drilled for a rim-mount faucet.
Pedestal bases spread the load differently from four small feet. That matters on older subfloors, where point loads under claw feet can dent softwood. The double-ended basin gives both ends an equal slope, and the cast iron and enamel construction keeps the heat retention score in the same band as the other iron tubs here.
Flaws but not dealbreakers. Pedestal tubs are harder to level than a four-foot clawfoot, and shimming under a pedestal is fiddly work. The 7-inch rim drilling spacing also restricts you to faucets built for that measurement, so buying the faucet first and the tub second avoids a costly mismatch.
Compatibility: The rim holes measure 7 inches on center. Buy a faucet built for that drilling spacing, or budget for a different tub, because redrilling enamel is not realistic.
Pros
✓Pedestal base spreads weight across a wider footprint than four claw feet.
✓7-inch rim holes arrive pre-drilled for a period-correct rim faucet.
✓Double-ended basin gives both bathers an equal slope.
✓Cast iron and enamel hold heat better than any acrylic shell here.
Cons
✕Leveling a pedestal base is more work than a four-foot clawfoot.
Buying Guide: Size, Material, Drillings and Budget
Cast iron is a metal tub shell finished with a porcelain enamel coating, and it is chosen over acrylic for two reasons: heat retention and impact resistance. The Porcelain Enamel Institute classifies enamel finishes by wear grade, and tub-grade enamel sits in the middle to upper range for abrasion resistance. Here is what actually decides which of these ten tubs fits your project.
What size tub do you need?
Match the tub to your wall, then to your body. These picks span 57 to 72 inches, and that 15-inch spread decides far more than style. A 57-inch shell needs about 58 inches of clear opening, a 60-inch needs 61, and a 72-inch needs roughly 73.
Measure the narrowest point between walls, not the average.
Length is not the same as usable soak. A 60-inch double-ended tub puts a drain in the middle and reduces the flat sitting area compared with a 60-inch single-slope design. If you are over six feet, the 67-inch Akicon and the 72-inch Signature Hardware 312541 are the realistic options.
Below 60 inches, expect bent knees.
Cast iron or something lighter?
Cast iron wins on heat, and acrylic wins on weight. A cast iron shell typically weighs far more than an acrylic shell of the same footprint, which changes the install crew, the floor loading, and the resale value of your back. In exchange, water stays warm noticeably longer, and the enamel surface resists scratching from abrasive cleaners.
A cast iron tub in this category usually carries a manufacturer warranty measured in years, often against structural failure. Check the listing for the specific term. What most warranties do not cover is chipping from a dropped tool during install, which is the single most common damage owners report.
Which drilling pattern should you order?
Drillings are the holes cut through the tub for the drain overflow and the faucet. Get this wrong and the tub is unusable without a machine shop. The options here cover the full range: the Erica 57 has an overflow hole but no faucet holes, the 931047-72-RR has nothing drilled at all, and the KOHLER Villager and Akicon ship as complete assemblies with the drain already resolved.
If you already own a faucet, buy the tub that matches its mounting pattern. If you have not chosen a faucet yet, choose the tub first, then shop faucets against the drilling spec. That order eliminates the most expensive mistake in this category.
Is cast iron worth the premium?
Yes, if you plan to stay. Iron tubs last for decades with basic care, while acrylic shells can crack and flex. No, if you rent or flip quickly.
In that case the Ekopel refinishing kit or the Tub Repair Kit White deliver a visible improvement for a fraction of the cost and effort. Weigh the cost of demolition, disposal, and plumbing against the cost of the tub itself, because the tub is often the cheaper line item.
The four common buying mistakes
Ordering before measuring the narrowest wall gap is the first, and the most costly. Skipping the floor-load check is the second: a filled cast iron tub plus a bather can exceed 700 pounds concentrated in a small area, and older joists were not always sized for it.
Third, buying the faucet before confirming the drilling pattern, which strands you with hardware that will not mount. Fourth, planning a same-day install. Cast iron arrives by freight, needs two or more people to move, and often needs a touch-up before it goes in.
Budget a full day and a second helper.
Who Should NOT Buy Best Cast Iron Tubs
Cast iron tubs are the wrong purchase for a few specific buyers, not because the product is bad, but because the project math does not work. Here is who should stop and reconsider.
You rent, or you are moving within two years
You cannot take a cast iron tub with you, and the install cost is not recoverable. Demolition, disposal, freight, and plumbing labor all stay with the property. A refinishing kit or a surface repair gets you a cleaner bathroom without sinking money into someone else’s building.
You need a tub that is light enough for one person to move
Cast iron is the heaviest tub material in residential use. If you cannot get two or three people up your stairs on install day, or your staircase has a tight turn, a cast iron shell may not physically fit the path. Acrylic and stone-resin tubs exist for exactly this reason.
Your subfloor or joist span is already marginal
A filled cast iron tub is a concentrated dead load that stays there permanently. If you have already noticed bounce in the floor above the bathroom, or you are adding a tub above a finished ceiling, get a structural opinion before you buy. This is not a decision to make with a tape measure alone.
You want a tub you can swap out in an afternoon
Cast iron installation is a plumbing and carpentry project, not a swap. If your goal is a weekend refresh, the two repair products in this list are the honest recommendation, not a new shell.
FAQ
What’s the best Cast Iron Tubs overall?
The Signature Hardware 406146 Lena 59″ Cast. It is the only tub in this lineup with both a pre-drilled overflow hole and a factory tap deck on a 59-inch shell, so the faucet mounting is decided before the tub arrives.
How long does a cast iron tub last?
A well-maintained cast iron tub with an intact enamel coating routinely lasts several decades. Manufacturers typically back the structure for a multi-year term, while the finish is the part that ages first. Chips and dull spots are usually cosmetic and can be patched rather than replaced.
Is cast iron worth more than acrylic?
Cast iron is worth more if heat retention, sound dampening, and long service life matter to you. It costs more to buy, more to ship, and much more to install. Acrylic is the better choice if weight, installation speed, or total project cost are the priorities.
Which tub is easiest to install?
The KOHLER 716-0 Villager is the least disruptive, because it is sized for a standard 60-inch alcove and ships with a right-hand drain and an integrated apron. Confirm the drain side first. Among the freestanding options, the Akicon is simpler because the drain and overflow kit is included.
Can a beginner install a cast iron tub?
A beginner can handle a refinishing or repair job, but not a full cast iron tub install. Moving the shell safely takes two or more people, and drilling enamel for faucet holes is unforgiving. Alcove installs also require tile work and a proper drain connection.
How do I maintain a cast iron tub?
Use a non-abrasive cleaner and a soft cloth. Skip steel wool and scouring powders, because they dull the enamel and make future staining more likely. Fix chips early with a two-part epoxy kit before water reaches the iron underneath and rust starts spreading under the finish.
What warranty should I expect?
Expect a multi-year manufacturer warranty on the tub structure and coating, with the exact term set by the brand. Warranties almost never cover installation damage, chipped enamel from dropped tools, or freight-related scuffs. Read the listing’s warranty section before you order.
Should I repair or replace a damaged cast iron tub?
Repair if the shell is solid and the damage is cosmetic. Replace if the tub flexes underfoot, the crack passes through the shell, or the enamel has failed across a large area. A refinishing kit like the Ekopel covers widespread surface failure, while spot kits like the Tub Repair Kit White handle chips and small cracks.
Final Verdict
The best pick for most people is the Signature Hardware 406146 Lena 59″ Cast. It is the only tub here with a pre-drilled overflow and a factory tap deck on a 59-inch clawfoot shell, which removes the riskiest step in a cast iron install.
Want a freestanding centerpiece with the drain hardware already in the box? Get the Akicon 67″ Cast Iron Freestanding Bathtub, and accept the floor-filler plumbing cost that comes with it.
Need a standard alcove replacement instead of a freestanding tub? The KOHLER 716-0 Villager 60″ x 30-1/4 is the least disruptive swap in this lineup, provided your drain rough-in is on the right side.
If your shell is sound and only the surface has failed, skip the new tub entirely. The Ekopel Roll Tub Cast Bathtub Refinishing refreshes the whole basin at a fraction of the project cost. And if you rent, flip, or cannot move 300-plus pounds of iron, read the section above before you spend anything.
